A Beginner's Guide to Buying Japanese Teaware

I had a conversation the other day with a new guy on TeaChat that inspired me to compile a bit of a guide to purchasing Japanese Teaware.

Short answer, buy from Japanese vendors--this is often true of their tea as well. The closer you get to the source, the better the price and sometimes quality. For example, look at prices for pots by my favorite artist, Shimizu Genji/Hokujo.

Artistic Nippon (Japan): 125 USD

Tamayura (France): 150 USD

Rishi-Tea (USA): 170 USD

For another, less dramatic example, though I hate to pick on Rishi, look at the "kikumaru."

Nishikien (Japan) 40 USD

Rishi-Tea (USA): 55 USD

However, to be fair, shipping must also be taken into consideration, and sometimes the higher cost of having your pot shipped from Japan can eat into the money you would be saving. Even so, the total cost of a Shimizu kyusu and samashi plus shipping from Rishi was 240 vs 195 from Artistic Nippon. And Zencha doesn't charge shipping on their pottery.

There are a few other concerns with purchasing directly from Japanese vendors. A language barrier, exchange rates, and poorly translated web sites, sometimes lacking a clear way to even order the item you want can be intimidating. In some cases there isn't a "shopping cart" or an easy check out; the transaction is handled with emails and international money orders. Not to mention if you don't know anyone who has had experience with a particular site, you could always be taking a risk. But, thus far my experiences have been nothing but positive, and I still think this is the way to go.

Artistic Nippon

My Favorite Place for Tokoname yaki.

As I am about to show you, I simply can not say enough good things about Artistic Nippon and its owner, Yoshikawa Toru. He spent some time going to school in Wisconsin; his English is perfect, so communication is not a problem. He provides a personal touch that I don't see often. All of my correspondence with him has been a pleasure; he has helped me with my Japanese and answered all my questions. He even sent me maps of Kyoto and museum brochures when I mentioned I was planning a trip.

Twice now I have sent him a picture of an item that I was interested in that he was able to procure for me, and I know of a few other people who have done the same. If there is something I'm looking for, Toru san is the first person I go to.

Zencha

My Favorite Place for Hagi yaki.

Every time I visit their site, I thank all merciful gods that every item I simply must have has already been sold. I live in mortal terror and nigh sexual anticipation of the day they re-stock. They have a phenomenal selection, biographies of their artists, a feature that I am particularly fond of, and free shipping.

Other well known places that I have used and can vouch for, though their selections are smaller:

Den's Tea
Hibiki-an

These vendors have extraordinary selections, but I have not yet purchased from them. I would ask around a bit or contact them before pulling out the credit card. Just to be safe.

Tea Shop

Tokoname Teapot

Nishikien

Looking for wholesale, try these guys:

Yamadera

Since I picked on them...

Rishi-Tea

They have the best selection of Tokoname I've seen from a domestic vendor. Whoever their buyer is, he has very good taste. I have purchased seven of their pots over the last two years, and all of them were excellent for the price paid. If you choose to go with a company closer to home, I highly recommend them.

The Fukugata in particular is the best tea pot for beginners, in my opinion. If only they could keep it in stock. If you get a chance, grab one; its worth it.

Fujigata

My new teapot, the Fujigata from Rishi. The name translates to shaped like (Mt.) Fuji.

I like this pot's rustic feel, thicker clay, and mottled color. It is a 9 oz pot with a very fast pour, 6-10 seconds.

Den's Tea Matcha Kaze

Kuro Raku

First I'd like to introduce my new chawan, an early birthday present. It is a kuro (black) raku made in Tokoname, Japan by Shoraku.


I was interested in this one from Hibiki-an, but I wanted to continue to pursue my business relationship with Toru-san from Artistic Nippon. I emailed him a picture of it and asked if it was something he could procure for me, and of course he came through for me again. I think he did an excellent job, and I am very pleased with it.

Interesting coincidence: both bowls have the artist's chop in gold paint/glaze; however, the picture I sent Toru-san did not show the chop, so he couldn't have known.

Matcha Kaze

This is my first matcha from Den's Tea and my first from Shizuoka.

Matcha has been the most challenging tea to review so far. The vocabulary isn't as established as it is with most tea. I know from reading blogs and what not that with other teas I can expect notes of chocolate or peach, camphor or muscatel, grassy or nutty, whatever the case may be. Realizing that I can bull shit you with vague talk of "green" and "fresh" for only so long, I tried to find other, more descriptive words.

The obvious idea was to look at blogs, see how others describe matcha, but it turns out that unless I plan to bake with it or make frappucinos, I'm out of luck. (If you're reading this, and I missed your brilliant posts on the complex, umami deliciousness of matcha, please leave a link in the comments). In the end I browsed through a few Japanese sites like Ippodo and Hibiki-an, putting together my own list of characteristics, a bit of a scale to help quantify my results.

Checklist isn't the right word, but its the first one that comes to mind.

Aroma: (7/10) It is rich and sweet but subdued compared to the Uji matcha that I've primarily used thus far.

Sweetness: (5/10) Moderate, towards the end it tasted a bit dry.

Astringency: (1/10) Even when using much larger amounts than is recommended for usucha, which I will get to in a sec, I wouldn't describe it as even lightly astringent.

Taste: (6.5/10) Mild would be the most concise word. Not bad or inferior, but not intense or bold. It was clear early on that the 1.5 - 2 scoops wasn't going to cut it for me, too weak, so I increased it to 4-5, koicha quantity. Better, but still as I said, mild. In a way I think this is a testament to the quality of the tea. A low grade usucha should have been bitter, harsh or unpleasant after that amount.

Ultimately this tea wasn't for me, but only because I have to use so much, otherwise it would be a suitable daily matcha. I will try Den's other Shizuoka matcha, the Miyabi, on my next order. I am curious if other Shizuoka matcha is like this.

Every time I make matcha, I learn something. This time it was Don't prepare matcha next to an open window. That green stuff can get every where. For sure I am still going to find it on some of my books months from now. This is funny given the name. Kaze means wind.

Matcha, Part 2

Raku Yaki

"Ichi Raku, ni Hagi, san Karatsu." -a Japanese expression: First Raku, second Hagi, third, Karatsu, essentially affirming the superiority of Raku yaki. Of course, art apreciation is always subjective.

Raku yaki originated towards the end of the 16th century in Kyoto, during the rule of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, by Sasaki Chojiro, a tile maker who enjoyed the patronage of Sen no Rikyu. Chojiro's chawans sought to embody the essence of wabi cha, Rikyu's fusion of the cha no yu with the aesthetic ideals of wabi sabi.

The briefest explanation of wabi sabi I can offer is finding beauty in the impermanence and imperfection of things.

Prior to Rikyu and Chojiro's contributions, the tea ceremony was a rather jovial affair, full of pomp, and expensive, ornate chawans from China were widely used. Rikyu sought to merge Zen and Tao with Chado, thus the tea ceremony evolved. Chojiro's Raku yaki (at the time it was called ima yaki, literally now ware) were ideal for this. They were monochrome, traditionally black (kuro) or red (aku)--these colors were thought best for enhancing the color of the tea.

Raku yaki is formed completely by hand and low-fired in a special kiln. The resulting piece is light weight and delicate.

Chawan, Chasen, and Chashoku

(Things you need to make matcha).

Chawans

The aku raku is from artistic nippon; it is wonderful and indeed light weight and delicate. I particularly enjoy the glaze.

The other two chawan were made in Tokoname. I purchased them from Rishi about a year ago. I have been using them as teacups; they comfortably hold an entire pot of tea, and are considerably more aesthetically harmonious with my my Tokoname yaki then a coffee mug.

For making matcha, the larger raku is more suitable. The wider diameter makes it easier to whisk the tea--I found it more difficult to get a good froth going when using one of the other two, and the raku has less heat retention, allowing one to drink the tea immediately. This is important, because if the tea is allowed to sit too long, the matcha will begin to settle.

The last two things you need. The chashoku is not as important, but they are affordable, about $5, and are kind of cool. A chasen is a small work of art in and of itself, and essential to getting the best out of your matcha. As Kevin's expert eye pointed out, this chasen was made in China, not Japan, which explains the lower price I paid. (Thank you Yoshikawa san for being so honest about it as well). While a Chinese made chasen can be good quality, it is likely that it will not last as long as a Japanese made one will. So when choosing a chasen, let the price be your guide and be concerned if the price is too low.

That covers the equipage, next post we'll finally get to the matcha.

For more information about Raku yaki, take a look at the website. It includes a gallery of chawans created by fifteen generations, from Chojiro to the current head of the family, Kichizaemon.

Shimizu Genji-san, Part 3

Last week I received two new items from Tokoname, Japan via Artistic Nippon that were hand crafted by my favorite tea guy, Shimizu Genji-san (Hokujo), and I think they are perfect.

Mogake Yokode Kyusu


I knew that I wanted a side-handled kyusu by Genji-san, and I have been saving up for one for a while, humming and hawing over which one I should purchase. At the last minute I picked this one, and I'm glad I did.

This teapot uses a "mogake" design, where seaweed is attached to the pot using string, thus allowing the salt to oxidize the clay during firing. This creates a unique and elemental pattern.


The spout is well made, and the lid is a remarkably precise fit, so there is absolutely no leaking or dripping.

Notice that the handle and spout are not a perfect right angle. I can't remember where I read it, but supposedly that is a sign of a well designed kyusu.

Another fantastic sasame.

Three-Footed Yuzamashi

I saw this one on a Japanese website that only sold wholesale, and I had been looking for it since. When I ordered the kyusu, I figured it couldn't hurt to ask Yoshikawa-san if this was an item that he could procure for me. To my very pleasant surprise, it appears he spoke with Genji-san, who then made this particular one.

When I first saw a picture of it, and every single time after, all I could see was water being poured into it, sort of sloshing around, pure and clear. It sounds lame, I know, but the yuzamashi knew its purpose and wanted to full fill it. When it came, as soon as it was unwrapped, without thinking about it, I filled it with water, and it was like a deep itch had finally been scratched.


Yeah, lame, I know, but this piece is special to me, nonetheless.

It handles very well. Being wide and shallow allows a better distribution of weight than the tetsuki yakishime samashi, facilitating a smoother pour.


I like the feet.


I chose to say little and let the pictures try to speak for themselves. But I can tell you that seeing a picture is nothing like holding them. These two items are superb.

Kikumaru Kyusu

This is for Mary, who requested a review on the Kikumaru Kyusu from Rishi.

Diameter: 3.73 in.
Height: 2 in. (not including lid)
Volume: 9 oz.
Price: $55
Imported by Rishi-Tea

This was my second teapot from Tokoname, and since I gave the first one away some time ago, it is the one I've had the longest. I dedicated it to white tea, and in some of the pictures you can see the patina that has built up over time. The name translates to round (maru) chrysanthemum (kiku).

Like the Fukugata the elegance of this pot is found in its simplicity.


And as you can see, it is not particularly large. I like to make white tea in 8 oz portions, so I find it to be the perfect size.

The spout is designed well to prevent dripping, more on that in a bit, and the lid is a perfect fit.

The sasame is wonderful, slightly finer than the one in the Fukugata. When looking for a Tokoname pot, or Japanese teapots in general, the sasame is the first thing I look at. If the filter is high quality, than odds are the teapot is as well, and this sasame is the best I've seen.

Another important aspect of a good pot to consider is does it have a "leaky bottom." If the pot is designed and crafted well, it will not drip or drain while pouring. The video will demonstrate what I'm talking about.



Like the Fukugata, I think this is a wonderful teapot at a good price. If you are looking to purchase you first Tokoname pot, I still say start with the Fukugata. You will get the same functionality for $20 less. If you are looking for your second pot, or don't mind paying a little more for a marginally better pot, do not pass this one up.

Yoshikawa Toru...

...is my hero. I have been looking for this samashi. I was placing an order with Artistic Nippon, and I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask if it was something he could get his hands on. It turns out that not only can he get one, but that it is being made specifically for me. Oh I'm sure that he'd order one for any customer that asked, but the point is that the one I get will be made because I asked for it.

In a couple of weeks, expect me to go all ga-ga in a review over this thing.

Samashi by Shimizu

I am looking for this yakishime samashi from Tokoname, Japan made by Shimizu Genji. If you've seen this on a website somewhere, or know where I can purchase one, please let me know. I've found a place that sells whole sale, but they have not responded to my emails. Sure would like to get my hands on one. Thank you.

Kyusu

A few days ago I sat down to write a review on my Fukugata Kyusu. I thought I would do bit of research, Google "kyusu," and provide some history on this wonderful and unique style of teapot. Several hours and a trip to the bookstore later, I had almost nothing. I could find hundreds of websites that want to sell me a kyusu, but none that could tell me much about them.

The only interesting information I found came from Artistic Nippon, which states that there are different types of kyusu, the two main ones being yokode (side handle) and ushirode (rear handle). This was confusing, as I thought that kyusu were side-handle teapots. I checked several Japanese to English Dictionaries, and it would seem that kyusu just means teapot. Yokode is actually two words, yoko (side) and the particle de (at), and ushiro means rear.

Since the folks at Artisitic Nippon seemed to know their stuff, I sent them email asking them to tell me more about yokode kyusu. Toru Yoshikawa was very helpful and wrote back in just a few hours. Because I prefer to get my information from more than one source, and because Yoshikawa-san also stated in his email that his "comments are not Academically proved," be aware that the following information may not be accurate. However, it is all I could find, and it seems legit, so I am going with it.

"Senchado is similar to Chado - the matcha tea ceremony. However one of the differences is that in Senchado metal kettles are not used boil water because it is believed that it affects the taste of the sencha in a negative way. Instead, a terracotta pot called "bofura" is used.

Sencha was introduced in mid 17th century to Japan from China, and this bofura originally came from China too. It has a handle on the side and it is therefore considered to be the fore-runner of the yokode kyusu. In the early Onkoyaki kiln workshop (Gifu-pref) established in 1859, houbin (teapots without a handle) and yokode kyusu were produced. Old banko kyusu were also in the yokode style. Onkoyaki no longer exists, but the area of Onko is in the same vicinity as Tokoname and Banko and therefore we can assume that yokode teapots were produced by these kilns at around the same time."

I had not heard of senchado before, but it is just what it sounds like, a tea ceremony using sencha instead of the more expensive matcha. According to the Japan Times, the idea was to make tea "available to everyone, rich or poor, educated or illiterate."

Fukugata

Diameter: 3.6"

Height: 2.5"

Volume: 10 oz (300 ml)

Price: $35

Vendor: Rishi-Tea

Fukugata Kyusu (Fookoogahtah Kyooosoo), its name means "happy shape," or the implied, more whimsical "Shaped like a jolly, full-bellied man. I love this teapot. This is the teapot I reccomend to anyone looking to buy a Tokoname teapot. Its a classic shudei (red clay) pot, elegant in its simplicity. At $35 it is about as low as you are going to pay for a pot from Tokoname, at least a good one that is.

But what sets the Fukugata apart from all the rest is its sasame, clay mesh screen. You wont find other teapots with a sasame of that caliber at that price, or at least I haven't. Most have only have a stainless steal mesh like an obi-ame. Functionally it doesn't matter; both styles of filter will get the job done, but the sasame is just so much...cooler. Using traditional, hand-crafted tea ware connects me to the timelessness of tea, and seeing a big, shiny piece of stainless steal kind of takes the fun away.

There are a couple of things to say against it, though. 1) Its design is simple, perhaps too simple. One person I recommended this pot to wasn't interested because of that, a valid point. 2) I think it may be too large for gongfu, so if you are looking for something for puerh or oolong, you may be happier with a traditional yixing pot or gaiwan. That is not to say it can't be done. I've used a 13 oz yokode kyusu for gongfu demonstrations before and had great results, but that was for serving many people.

All in all I rate the Fukugata a 4.5. It is a great little pot, and that price makes it very hard to beat.

Shimizu Genji-san Update

When will the Shimizu-thon end?!

This morning someone emailed me these pictures. I enjoyed them, so of course I'm going to assume that you will, too.

Update: Okay, these pictures were provided by a French company, Tamayura. And for people who can't get enough of this stuff, go here. (Thanks wehayley).










Whoever sent me these pictures, thank you very much, and I hope its okay that I posted them here. If not, I will remove them right away.

Come back soon for a blog entry that has nothing to do with Japanese potters or even Japan.

Tokoname Kyusu

On another forum, someone provided a link to some fantastic Tokoname kyusu. I have not purchased one yet, so I can not attest to their actualy quality, but I am quite fond of how they look.

Here's the link:
http://www.artisticnippon.com/product/tokoname/tokonameindex.htm

Tokoname

The first reviews that I will write for this blog will be over my various tea wares from Tokoname, Japan, so I thought it a good idea to provide a brief history of Tokoname, taken from Rishi, Wikipedia, and various other sites that I used to cross-check the information.

Tokoname teapots and wares are the yixing of Japan. I prefer them to yixing, as I am particularly fond of my kyusu and opt for larger pots (8-10 oz). They are also less porous than yixing and will take longer to absorb flavors. This could be good or bad, but advantageous for beginners, as it will be more forgiving.

Tokoname is a city in the Aichi prefecture on the main island of Japan, Honshu. In terms of kilns, it is the oldest and largest pottery center in Japan. During their early history, Tokoname potters mainly produced wares for Buddhist Temples, but economic growth during the Momoyama Period (1568-1603) allowed them to shift their focus to household items. By the 19th century, yixing wares had become popular among Japanese tea lovers. This in conjunction with Chinese potter, Jin Shi Heng's visit to Tokoname had a profound influence on Tokoname teawares.

Common Japanese Teaware Terms:

Chasen - Bamboo whisk
Chashaku - Bamboo tea-scooper-thingamajig
Chawan - Tea bowl
Kyusu - Teapot with side handle
Obi Ami - Mesh band screen
Sasame - Clay mesh screen
Samashi - Water cooler
Shudei - Red clay
Ushirode - Teapot with back handle
Yohen - Natural ash glaze

Ah hell, who am I kidding; there's a much better list here:
http://www.o-cha.com/greenteaglossary/